The washing machine does not wash, but it does wring and rinses

It is easy to understand that the washing machine does not wash, but rinses and wrings out. In such a situation, when the standard program is started, the machine “freezes”, and when the “Rinse + Spin” mode is activated, it starts working. A full wash becomes impossible. The strange "behavior" of the technique can be explained by several reasons. To make the final "diagnosis", it is necessary to carry out a comprehensive diagnosis of the washing machine.

How does the machine collect water?

If you have problems starting the wash, the first thing to do is to try again, evaluating the quality of the wash. Immediately after activating the main program, pull out the detergent drawer and look at the behavior of the machine. If the equipment buzzes and water poured into the powder receptacle, but after a few minutes the system hangs, then the problem is in the heating element.

Another thing is when the set has not started, and the washing machine has stopped working. In this case, the reason for the hang-up lies in a banal blockage - one of the nozzles connected to the powder receiver or the filler mesh filter is clogged. Troubleshooting is simple: just remove the top cover, loosen the clamps and remove any trapped debris or scale. If there are problems with the heater, the instructions on what to do will be different. We will give a step-by-step algorithm below.

All attention to the heating element

The washing machine does not start washing if the heating element or the temperature sensor connected to it breaks down. The explanation is simple: before starting the cycle, the system automatically checks all key nodes, fixes heating problems and cancels it at the start. Sometimes the termination of the program is accompanied by an error code on the display, but more often the machine freezes "silently".

To confirm the guess, it is necessary to check the heating element for serviceability. The heating element is located on most washing machines below, under the washing tub. But first, we disconnect the machine from communications and move it away from the wall. After that, unscrew the bolts holding the rear panel, move the "back" to the side and find a rounded "chip" with a lot of wires near the engine. This will be the heater. Having found the heating element, we act in the following order:

  1. We photograph the location of the supplied wires, thereby simplifying the reverse connection;
  2. We release the wiring from the terminals;
  3. Take a multi meter, turn it on to the "ohmmeter" mode and set it to 200 ohm;
  4. We apply the tester probes to the contacts of the heating element;
  5. We evaluate the readings of the device (the norm is 26-28 ohms).

If, instead of the prescribed 26-28 Ohm, the multi meter issued "1", then the heating element is faulty due to an internal breakage. The "O" appearing on the display will indicate a short circuit. In both the first and second cases, repairs will not help - only replacement. The next step is to check the heating element for breakdown. We activate the buzzer mode, touch the probe to the heater and evaluate the result. Did the device beep? Then the element cannot be used, but urgently needs to be replaced with a new one. To replace a faulty heating element, it must be dismantled. Sometimes this is difficult to do - the sealing gum under the heater often expands during operation, blocking the device. You can deal with the obstacle as follows:

  1. Liberally lubricate the gasket with detergent;
  2. Wait 10-20 minutes;
  3. Disable the temperature sensor;
  4. Loosen the central nut, but do not remove it completely;
  5. Push the bolt inward;
  6. Swinging the heating element, remove it from the grooves.

Finding a new heating element is not difficult. The main thing is to look at the serial number of the washing machine or heater when looking for an analogue. A safe bet is to bring the dismantled item to the store and ask for a replacement. You can install a new heater yourself. First, clean the seat, then fix the heating element in the grooves, return the thermistor and wiring. When connecting the latter, it is important to focus on the photographs taken before dismantling.

If the heating element turned out to be serviceable

If the heating element testing did not reveal a blockage, breakdown or breakdown, then the washing does not work due to the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor is located on the heater body near the central nut. It should be removed and ringed. The instruction is as follows:

  1. Disconnect the connected wiring from the sensor;
  2. Unhook from the heating element;
  3. Turn on the multi meter in ohmmeter mode;
  4. Attach the probes to the thermistor contacts;
  5. Evaluate the resistance (when operating at a temperature of about 250 0 с, the device will show 2000 ohm).

The test continues by immersing the sensor in boiling water, followed by measuring the resistance. When the temperature rises to 500 0 С, the readings should drop to 1300 Ohm. If the values ​​are different, the thermistor is defective. Repairing the situation does not fix the situation, only replace the temperature sensor.

Is the thermistor good? Then we inspect the wiring connected to the heater for damage and loose contacts. If no problems are identified during the diagnosis, then you should contact the service. Perhaps the control board flew. Here, independent intervention is fraught with aggravation of breakdowns up to the "lethal outcome" of equipment.